在昆明喝咖啡 | Coffee in Kunming
点击视频查看《昆明咖啡的崛起》
Since 2020, Wang Qian, a new media practitioner, has been ordering a cup of Americano every working day. “When my work schedule is tight or when I’m under a lot of stress, a cup of coffee will help me get energized. Coffee has become a part of my daily routine.”
2020年以来，每个工作日，新媒体从业者王谦都要来杯美式咖啡。“工作量和工作压力都比较大，咖啡能让我保持兴奋，可以说，它现在已经是我的日常‘口粮’了。”
Behind a small cup of coffee lies great “business expertise”.
小小一杯咖啡，背后却有着一本大大的“生意经”。
In recent years, small cafes of different styles have sprung up like mushrooms after rain in the streets and alleys of Kunming, and more and more people have started to drink Yunnan coffee. This proves the fact that coffee, as a characteristic plateau agricultural product of Yunnan, is playing an increasingly important role in the green food card, one of Yunnan’s “three calling cards”.
近年来，在昆明的大街小巷，一家又一家风格各异的小咖啡馆如雨后春笋般冒了出来。喝云南咖啡的人更多了。这背后，也展现出咖啡作为云南高原特色农产品在打响“三张牌”中的绿色食品牌中发挥出的日益重要的作用。
To many people, coffee is bitter. The cafes hidden in the streets and alleys of Kunming all have their own way of brewing coffee, making for a variety of different flavors. In addition to the bitterness, local ingredients such as bean paste, chili peppers, preserved rose petals, as well as liqueurs are added into the coffee, making it more acidic, sweet or spicy. Just like the city itself, the coffee is also diverse and inclusive. You will never know what kind of coffee you will find at the next café you visit.
在很多人印象中，咖啡是苦的。但在藏匿于昆明大街小巷的咖啡馆中，咖啡的味道却十分多元，在苦涩之外，更有极具昆明特色的豆沙、小米辣、玫瑰老卤等食材、酒类点缀其间的酸甜辣。如同昆明这座城市的个性一样，昆明的咖啡也是多元且包容的，你永远不知道，下一个拐角的咖啡馆将遇上怎样的咖啡。
Coffee with Yunnan Characteristics. By Zhou Mi
云南特色的咖啡。周密摄
2019 seems to have been a watershed year for the coffee market in Kunming.
2019年，似乎是昆明咖啡市场消费的一个分水岭。
Kunming, a city known for its laidback lifestyle, was an “awkward” place to many cafe owners.
此前，以生活慢节奏出名的昆明在很多咖啡店经营者看来，其实是个略微“尴尬”的地方。
“Although Kunming is the capital of China’s main coffee producing province, it is still far away from the main producing cities, such as Baoshan and Pu’er. Besides, with no industrial chain, it is difficult to reduce costs and if trying to sell these products to other provinces or even abroad, we are bound to encounter bottlenecks in channels and output. In addition, because of the slow pace of life in the city, the main consumer group, urban white-collar workers, have limited demand for coffee, which results in slow market growth.” Tina, manager of ‘Taoxi’, a community cafe on Shangyi Street, explained.
“虽然昆明是中国咖啡主产地的省会城市，但它离保山、普洱等主产地之间还有一段距离，且咖啡产业发展没有形成一个链条，这意味着很难压缩成本，要做产品卖出省甚至出国，都会在渠道、产量存在瓶颈；此外，由于整个城市的节奏比较慢，意味着主要消费客群——都市白领对咖啡需求量有限，市场增速较慢。”位于尚义街的社区咖啡馆“桃喜”主理人Tina介绍。
Statistical data further prove the intuitive experience that the market brings to people.
统计数据，为市场给人带来的直观感受提供了有力支撑。
Looking at the coffee industry in Yunnan as a whole, the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic provided an excellent development opportunity, as the import of coffee beans was greatly affected. However, the delivery cycle of Yunnan coffee beans remained stable, resulting in an explosive development in 2020.
而站在整个云南的咖啡产业来看，新冠肺炎疫情的发生，也为云南咖啡的发展提供了一个绝佳的机会：受疫情影响，要进口国外的咖啡豆存在很多不确定因素，但云南咖啡豆的到货周期却不存在这个问题。货源的稳定性，成为云南咖啡在2020年获得“引爆式”发展的诱因。
Coffee beans. By Zhou Mi 咖啡豆。周密摄
According to data from Qianzhan Jingjixueren, in 2019, the coffee planting area in Yunnan reached 1.5673 million mu, accounting for over 99% of the coffee planting area in the whole country, with an output of 145,000 tons. The raw coffee beans and deep-processed coffee products of Yunnan Province were sold to 55 countries and regions including the RU, the US, Japan, and South Korea, producing an export volume of nearly 1 billion yuan. According to statistics from Kunming Customs, 56,100 tons of coffee beans and related products were exported from Yunnan Province in 2019.
前瞻经济学人App的数据显示，2019年，云南咖啡种植面积达156.73万亩，占全国99%以上，14.5万吨的产量位居全国第一。云南省咖啡原料豆及深加工产品远销欧盟以及美国、日本、韩国等55个国家和地区，出口创汇接近10亿元。昆明海关统计，2019年云南省出口咖啡豆及相关制品5.61万吨。
“Like other agricultural produce, the rise of planting volume of coffee beans reflects the demand of the market.” said Zhu Zeyu, founder of Yunnan Anke Coffee Co., Ltd, which is located in an old factory on Houxin Street. After having renovated the factory, the first floor is now used as a roastery, while the second floor is a comprehensive space integrating a SCA (Specialty Coffee Association) coffee training academy, a coffee bar, and a public open space. “Since the outbreak of the pandemic, our roasted beans have been sold well. We sell at least 30 tons per month, and the sales volume is still growing.” Zhu Zeyu said.
“咖啡与其他农产品一样，当种植量上来的时候，就很能说明市场的需求了。”云南谙客咖啡有限公司创始人朱泽宇说。朱泽宇的“谙客”位于后新街一座旧工厂中，经过改造后一楼是有SC认证（食品生产许可）的咖啡烘焙工厂厂房，二楼是集SCA认证（Specialty Coffee Association）咖啡培训学院、咖啡吧台、公共开放空间于一体的综合空间。“疫情之后，我们的熟豆销量都很不错，每个月至少在30吨左右，而且还是处于一个稳步上涨的阶段。”朱泽宇说。
Adding “Kunming flavors” to coffee has become a powerful way to attract consumers.
昆明人将咖啡做出了特别的“昆明味”，这也成为吸引消费者的一个有力手段。
Coffee Making. By Li Haixi 咖啡制作。李海曦摄
“We are in Kunming, at 1,891 meters above sea level. Through coffee, we want to share the Yunnan we know with you. We are All-ttitude1891.” Siwei is preparing a speech for her live broadcast to let people know more about Yunnan coffee and her cafes. “All-ttitude1891” has two stores, one on Beimen Street and the other on Houxin Street, two streets with traditional Kunming characteristics. The cafes have become “must-visit” shops and are popular among young people. Siwei, who has been working in the coffee industry for years, knows that to be successful, just making sure that the products look good is not enough. As a Le Cordon Bleu trained chef, she is thinking outside the box to come up with new creative coffee drinks. She has created more than a dozen coffees which incorporate Yunnan elements such as Tonghai sweet liquor, chili powder, saponaria rice, Tuodong sweet soy sauce, and chili peppers, reflecting the 1891 brand concept. Not everyone enjoys the bitterness of coffee, but with the addition of Yunnan flavors, she has something for everyone. Special coffees such as “Banna Girl”, “Zhuxin Market”, “Red-headed Gull Latte” and “Haiyan Village Sunset”, bring up great Kunming memories to those who drink it.
“我们在海拔1891米的昆明，用咖啡制作美味，与你分享我认识的云南，我们是All-ttitude1891。”思薇在准备着自己直播的手稿，她计划在已有短视频宣传的基础上开通直播，让更多人了解自己的咖啡店，了解云南咖啡。“All-ttitude1891”一共有两家门店，分别位于北门街和后新街两条极具老昆明特色的街道上，如今，这两家门店都成了“网红”店，非常受年轻人喜欢。思薇在咖啡产业领域工作多年，她知道，光靠“颜值”走不长。蓝带厨师出身的她打起了“吧台特调咖啡”的主意。比起传统意式咖啡，融入了通海甜白酒、辣椒粉、皂角米、拓东甜酱油、小米辣等云南味觉元素的十多款创意咖啡更能体现1891品牌理念。不是每个人都能享受咖啡带来的苦味，但云南风味的加入，让大家通过“版纳姑娘”“篆新市场”“红嘴鸥拿铁”“海晏村日落”等特调咖啡，体验不一样的昆明味道，留下专属昆明记忆。
In Taoxi, Tina also makes papaya juice Americano, a seemingly bizarre combination providing the customers with a completely different taste of coffee.
而在“桃喜”，Tina以木瓜水打底，做出了一款木瓜水美式咖啡，看似“无厘头”的混搭，却让顾客感受到了咖啡的另一种形态。
<END>
Thanks for reading
声明：原创内容，转载请联系后台，标注来源
昆明日报综合新闻中心《看昆明》杂志编辑部出品
文｜李双双
编辑｜顾婷婷 许朴琼
翻译｜语言桥集团 于萍
母语校审 | Oskar Wetterberg
美术设计｜宋潇
一审｜张正宝
二审｜母昌买
Follow this WeChat public account to read the e-magazine
关注公众号，即可阅读电子杂志哦~